NYFW: Reem Acra 2013 Fall Couture collection

Traditional Japanese embroidery inspired the intricate red floral handwork on several dresses and gowns in the Reem Acra 2013 fall collection. Inspired by a recent trip to Japan and a series of fishnet-stocking photos by Daido Moriyama, his photos of women in fishnet stockings left an impression and influenced her. While difficult to use fishnet, Reem Acra made it almost seem luxurious.

Japanese embroidery inspired handwork; floral appliqués and delicate floral prints were everywhere. New to the collection was a very welcome surprise day-wear. Reem Acra increased this portion of her collection, which will undoubtedly increase her presence in the marketplace.  1950’s elegance reflected in her wool dress and evening coat. A personal favorite and one that elicited response from the crowd was, the red ombré goat-hair coat. Total wow factor. Of course for those that don’t like ombré, there were more subdued colors and color-blocks to choose from.

Reem Acra of course succeeds by showing a collection that included delicate beaded and embellished evening wear, bomber jackets, furry outerwear and wonderful kimono jackets.  Ms. Acra created this entire collection and still had time to help created a special ‘wedding gown’ for her dear friend and wedding colleague Preston Bailey for his marriage to Theo Blackman just 3 days later.

Glamorous, luxurious, subtle-sensuality, that is Reem Acra.  So what’s red, black, white and fishnet all over? A successful 2013 Fall collection by Reem Acra.

Fabrics for 2013 Collection: Tulle, twee, goat hair, silk crepe, nutria fur, wool, leather, and beaded embroidery.

Fall colors for 2013 Collection: Black, red, and ivory

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NYFW: Jenny Packham Fall 2013 Couture Collection

Jenny Packham’s eveningwear collection was full of opulence and romance. Then again, what would you expect from one of the favorite designers to celebrities and the Duchess, Kate Middleton? Inspired by seventeenth-century Paris salons—”where strong-minded women met to discuss arts and culture”, Jenny Packham created a collection that showcased a line of relaxed gowns and new to her collection – separates.

What makes Jenny Packham notable is she has earned the reputation for simply stunning couture evening-wear, as well as gaining a following in her bridal collections. The reason why could be that her collections are wearable and exude modest sensuality. Some have asked Jenny Packham when she would create day clothes – you know traditional mass-market suits, pants and tops. Her reply was “We’ve found the more the niche you are, the better off you are” and she has cornered the market on British Glam. Nothing stuffy or stiff about this collection.

Highlighted yet not on full display were the Jenny Packham accessories collection of necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches with sculptural cut crystals, layered bracelets. Filled with strong angles and shining rose gold metal; angular alabaster mint and white cut stones added to a sculptural modern feel. These bold and three dimensional accessories were inspired from the influential women that gathered in the great intellectual salons of the 17th century where away from the stifling protocols of the court, these women alone set the rules. Brides have been wearing some of these pieces for years and now, the mass-market has had their first really good look at them.

If you are looking to start your ‘statement’ collection’, start here.  If you’re looking for a beautiful dress coat that will take you from season to season, start here.  If you are looking for something that will take their breath away, look no farther than Jenny Packham, the “Queen of Bling”.

Colors for 2013 Collection: White, ivory, bisque, opal, metallic blush salmon, peach, burnt orange, cinnamon, scarlet red, gold, steal blue, midnight blue, grey and black.

Fabrics for 2013 Collection: Silk, silk charmeuse, chiffon, tulle, knit, wool, metallic beading and crystals – lots of crystals

 

NYFW: Timo Weiland Fall 2013 Women’s Collection

 

Timo Weiland took several chances this season.  The first was to separate their men and women’s collection. The second was creating a woman’s collection that had a bit of an attitude. It’s pretty safe to say by the end of the show, their gamble paid off big time.

The Timo Weiland type of woman has been one of the ‘good girls’, the cheerleader, the A-student. It seems to me that she has now discovered her inner strength and it shows in her fresh sense of ‘toughness’.  From the oversized shearing lapels, to the quilted biker jacket, to the crowd pleaser black leather bomber jacket, this collection says I’m tough but still a girl.

It wasn’t just outerwear that was well received. The slouchy sweater with pencil skirt was a twist on work comfort. The pleated mini-dress and jockey hat says, “I’m confident, grown-up but don’t want my clothes to be too fussy.” Could this be the new dress code of casual Friday?

The shoes, Timo Weiland for TSUBO are a must have. The Timo Weiland collection reflects their personal aesthetic sensibilities and desire to spur a return to the art of dressing.  From flats, to booties, wedges and heeled-boots, the construction ensures comfort and fit. The styles and textures will be the focal point no matter what you wear.

Weiland and Eckstein said that they had been inspired by English Tudor houses, and imagining hip East London girls heading to the country for the weekend. I’d say that they have successfully brought the country to cities around the world.

Fabrics for Fall 2013: Leather, shearing, quilting, denim, chiffon, windowpane plaid, lace, tweed, quilting, mink fur, medallion print, composite fleece, striped, jersey, brocade, Tudor tapestry, crepe, fjord fur, Finn Raccoon fur and stretch mesh

Colors for Fall 2013: Forest, ivory, grey, black, chalk, navy, grey oxford, cranberry, plum, cream white, fatigue, beige and green

Shoes: http://www.tsubo.com

Fratelli Rossetti presents Femininity and sensuality with a masculine slant

Androgynous and sophisticated, conscious and anti-conformist; this is the type of woman Fratelli Rossetti has in mind for the winter of 2012. For her, it has evolved into a collection full of typically masculine prints and details, all of which have been interpreted with a sensual take. This modern-day heroine that has returned to the sartorial rigor of the ’30s and ‘40s, whilst at the same time managing to give it a new take full of feminine irreverence. In other words subtly sexy.

The utmost form of expression of this wo-mannish trend is the Dandy range, the hallmark of which includes retro details such as the piping and the internal edging in grosgrain. The Mad Men look and feel of  the new “derby without laces”, create an easy-going and andro-chic look. The range is completed with slip-ons, boots and ankle boots, all made in a vintage-look leather. The colors are classic: tan, dark brown, burgundy and bottle green.  All of these (along with burgundy) were in full-force on the NYC Fashion Week Runway.

The Brera moccasin had to play a part in a collection that combines masculine and feminine codes. The Brera has also been reworked and produced in a new ankle boot version. Winter 2012 will also be seeing the arrival of the Lady Brera: the Fratelli Rossetti moccasin is “donning its heels”, transforming itself into a new tasseled high-heel pump. The Magenta boot will become a part of the riding trend. Another Fratelli Rossetti landmark, it sees a reworking of a model from the Seventies.

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Truly Fratelli Rossetti has worked on the codes of its men’s shoes, overhauling them to invent a new form of femininity for itself, which is far-removed from classic tenets. Snakeskin combined with patent leather makes for a version that creates interest, as does the pony skin combined with antique-effect calfskin.  In other words, you’ll want one of everything.